What is Vegan Leather?

The Ultimate Guide to Vegan Leather: Exploring Sustainable and Cruelty-Free Alternatives

Vegan leather, or faux leather, has gained significant popularity in recent years as a sustainable and ethical alternative to traditional animal-based leather. As the demand for eco-friendly and cruelty-free fashion and accessories grows, vegan leather has emerged as a viable option for those seeking stylish and conscious choices. This comprehensive guide aims to give you a deeper understanding of vegan leather, its manufacturing processes, its environmental impact, and its wide-ranging applications.

What is Vegan Leather?

Vegan leather is a synthetic material miming animal-based leather's look, feel, and durability. Unlike animal leather, vegan leather is created without animal hides, making it a cruelty-free and ethical alternative. Manufacturers create vegan leather using various materials, including synthetic polymers like polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC), as well as plant-based options such as cork, pineapple fibres, corn, apple peels, and mushrooms.

Manufacturing Processes of Vegan Leather

The manufacturing processes of vegan leather can vary depending on the type of material used. Synthetic vegan leather, such as PU and PVC, is typically created through a combination of chemical treatments, coating, and bonding of layers. Plant-based vegan leather involves the extraction of fibres from sustainable sources, followed by a processing phase that transforms these raw materials into usable fabric. Innovative techniques such as 3D printing and fabrication are also being explored to create vegan leather materials.

Types of Vegan Leather

Polyurethane (PU) Leather: PU leather is a common type of synthetic vegan leather. It is created by coating a fabric base, such as polyester, with a layer of polyurethane. PU leather offers a leather-like texture and appearance, and it can be manufactured to resemble various animal leathers, such as smooth grain, suede, or patent finishes. It is often used in clothing, handbags, footwear, and upholstery.

Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) Leather: Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) leather, also known as vinyl leather, is another synthetic vegan leather option. It is made by applying a layer of PVC to a fabric base, making it durable, water-resistant, and affordable. However, PVC production has historically been associated with environmental concerns, including the release of toxic chemicals such as dioxins.

Some modern PVC manufacturing processes, particularly in regions with strict environmental regulations, have improved to reduce harmful emissions. Despite these advancements, PVC remains a controversial material due to its reliance on fossil fuels, potential toxicity, and challenges in recycling. As a result, many conscious fashion brands have phased out its use, opting for more sustainable alternatives.

Dioxins are a group of chemically related compounds that are persistent environmental pollutants (POPs). They can cause problems with reproduction, development, and the immune system. They can also disrupt hormones and lead to cancer. As persistent environmental pollutants (POPs), dioxins can remain in the environment for many years. Additionally, some additives in PVC can be harmful to consumers.

Conscious fashion brands no longer use PVC. Stella McCartney ceased the use of all PVC plastics in 2010 and was instrumental in bringing about change. By 2016, all Kering brands (who at that time had a stake in the brand, had stopped using PVC (1). This synthetic material is cheap, so many companies still use it.

Plant-Based Leather: Plant-based vegan leather utilises sustainable materials derived from plants, reducing the reliance on fossil fuels. Some examples of plant-based vegan leather include:

1. Cork leather: Made from the bark of the cork oak tree, cork leather is lightweight, water-resistant, and has a unique texture. The cork industry is sustainable and environmentally friendly. Cork oak trees are not harmed during the harvesting of their bark, and they require very little water to grow. The cork bark is regenerative, too, so the cork can be harvested from the same tree every nine years. Cork leather is a versatile material used to create various fashion items, including bags and purses to shoes and belts. Unlike animal leather, the process of making cork leather is completely chemical-free.
2. Corn leather: Created from the oil that is extracted from field corn, a non-food grade corn that is not used as a food crop. The oil is used to produce a strong base fabric before being combined with Polyurethane (PU) to create a highly durable, low-impact material. Corn leather features heavily in the Watson & Wolfe collection. There are many different textures and finishes, each suitable for different applications. 
3. Piñatex: Piñatex is derived from pineapple leaves, offers a leather-like texture and is commonly used in bags, shoes, and accessories. It is created by felting the long cellulose fibres from pineapple leaves to form a non-woven substrate. Piñatex is composed of a blend of these pineapple fibres, PLA (Polylactic Acid), and petroleum-based resins. While the plant-based component is biodegradable, the added resins mean that Piñatex is not fully biodegradable. However, it remains a more sustainable alternative to traditional leather, as it utilises agricultural waste and avoids the toxic chemicals and heavy metals used in animal leather production.
4. Apple leather: Apple leather is created by extracting cellulose from apple peels and cores discarded by the food industry and blending them with polymers. While it utilises natural waste materials, it also contains polyurethane (PU) to enhance durability and functionality. As a result, apple leather is a more sustainable alternative to traditional leather but is not entirely biodegradable. However, it significantly reduces reliance on animal hides and makes use of otherwise discarded food industry by-products, contributing to a circular economy.
5. Mushroom leather: Developed through the cultivation of mycelium, the vegetative part of a fungus. Mycelium can be grown in almost any kind of agricultural waste. It is highly sustainable because it can be made and treated without polluting substances. At the end of its life, mushroom leather is completely biodegradable and compostable. It is extremely lightweight and flexible, too, which makes it effective for a wide range of products.
6. Cactus leather: The process for making the award-winning Cactus leather material involves using the young leaves of the prickly pear cactus. These leaves are harvested from organically grown cactus plants, which require very little water to grow. They are cleaned, mashed, and left in the sun to dry for three days before being processed into the final material.

Environmental Impact of Vegan Leather

Reduction of Animal Cruelty: One of the primary advantages of vegan leather is its avoidance of animal cruelty associated with traditional leather production. Vegan leather offers an ethical alternative for those who choose to abstain from using animal products.

Reduced Environmental Footprint: Vegan leather production generally has a lower environmental impact compared to traditional leather. The use of synthetic materials and plant-based alternatives minimises the reliance on animal agriculture, land use, water consumption, and greenhouse gas emissions associated with traditional leather production.

Reduction in Deforestation: In 2021, approximately 200,000 acres of the Amazon rainforest were linked to leather production through cattle ranching, contributing to widespread deforestation. That year, the total deforestation rate in the Brazilian Amazon was approximately 10,476 square kilometres. The leather industry plays a significant role in this destruction, as around 80% of Brazilian bovine leather is exported, with demand from global fashion and automotive sectors fueling expansion.

However, recent data indicates a shift: between August 2023 and July 2024, deforestation in the Amazon decreased by 30.6%, dropping to 6,288 square kilometres—the lowest level in nine years. This decline is attributed mainly to stricter conservation policies under President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva, alongside improved enforcement against illegal cattle ranching.

Despite these improvements, cattle ranching remains the leading driver of Amazon deforestation, with an estimated 63% of cleared land converted into pasture for livestock. The expansion of the leather industry continues to pose challenges, particularly as global demand for animal leather persists. Without further action to curb deforestation and promote sustainable alternatives, leather production will remain a key contributor to the destruction of one of the world's most vital ecosystems.

Recycling and End-of-Life Considerations: While synthetic vegan leather presents challenges in terms of end-of-life disposal, efforts are being made to improve recycling methods and create biodegradable alternatives. Plant-based vegan leathers often have better biodegradability and compostability, contributing to a more sustainable lifecycle.

Benefits of Vegan Leather

• Cruelty-Free and Ethical: Vegan leather offers a compassionate alternative to traditional leather, as no animals are harmed in its production. It appeals to individuals who prioritise ethical and cruelty-free fashion choices.
• Sustainability and Environmental Conservation: By reducing the demand for animal-based leather, vegan leather contributes to the conservation of natural resources, minimises deforestation, and decreases greenhouse gas emissions. Plant-based vegan leathers, in particular, have a smaller carbon footprint.
• Versatility and Fashion Trends: Vegan leather provides a versatile material for fashion and design. It can be crafted into various textures, finishes, and colours, catering to diverse fashion trends and personal styles.

Drawbacks and Limitations of Vegan Leather

While vegan leather offers many advantages, it is essential to acknowledge its limitations. Some of the drawbacks include:

1. Synthetic vegan leathers may not be as durable as traditional leather and can show signs of wear over time, particularly lower-quality PU-based options that may crack or peel. However, some premium plant-based vegan leathers, such as mushroom and cactus leather, are becoming more durable with technological advancements. These innovations enhance strength, flexibility, and longevity, making plant-based alternatives comparable to traditional leather in performance. As research and development continue, the gap between vegan and animal leather durability is expected to narrow further, providing more sustainable and long-lasting options
2. The production of synthetic vegan leathers involves using chemicals and fossil fuels, which can have environmental impacts during the manufacturing process.
3. Recycling and disposing of synthetic vegan leather can be challenging, as they are not easily biodegradable.

Caring for Vegan Leather Products

• Cleaning and Maintenance: Vegan leather products should be cleaned with mild, non-abrasive soap and water or a special vegan leather cleaner. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive scrubbing, as they can damage the surface. Regular maintenance, such as wiping with a soft cloth and storing properly, can prolong the lifespan of vegan leather items.
• Storage Tips: To preserve the quality of vegan leather products, store them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Avoid folding or compressing items for extended periods to prevent creasing.

Comparing Vegan Leather with Traditional Leather

A common misconception is that cow leather is a natural, organic material and, therefore, better for the environment. The impact cannot be assessed solely by examining the environmental aspects of production. It is important to consider the processes involved, the pollution created and the impact from cradle to gate.

The impact on animals globally is just as important when considering what materials to buy. More than one billion animals, including cows, pigs, sheep, goats, snakes, alligators, ostriches, kangaroos, and even dogs and cats, are slaughtered each year for their skins.

Vegan leather and traditional leather have distinct characteristics. Some key points of comparison include:

• Cost: Vegan leather is often more affordable than conventional leather.
• Manufacturing processes: Vegan leather is synthetic or plant-based, while traditional leather involves animal hide tanning.
• Durability: Traditional leather tends to be more durable and long-lasting, but certain types of vegan leather can offer comparable performance.
• Environmental impact: Vegan leather generally has a lower ecological footprint than traditional leather.
• Style and versatility: Both vegan and traditional leather offer a wide range of options, allowing consumers to choose based on their preferences.

The Future of Vegan Leather

The fashion industry is a significant contributor to environmental pollution, particularly in terms of water consumption, carbon emissions, and waste production. According to the 2017 Pulse of the Fashion Industry Report, animal-based materials rank among the top five most polluting materials used in fashion. Cow leather is identified as the most environmentally damaging fibre due to its impact on global warming, water scarcity, and pollution.

The same study found that faux leather alternatives contribute less than one-third of the environmental impact of cow leather, making them a more sustainable choice in terms of carbon footprint and resource use. However, while synthetic vegan leathers offer a lower-impact alternative, they still pose challenges related to plastic use and end-of-life disposal.

Innovations in plant-based and bio-fabricated leathers—such as mushroom, cactus, and apple leather—are emerging as more sustainable solutions, reducing reliance on fossil fuels while maintaining durability and functionality. As advancements continue, these next-generation materials may further reduce the fashion industry's environmental footprint.

Frequently Asked Questions about Vegan Leather

Conclusion

Vegan leather offers a sustainable and cruelty-free alternative to traditional leather. Individuals can make informed choices regarding their fashion and lifestyle preferences by understanding the manufacturing processes, environmental impact, and benefits of vegan leather. With the increasing availability of vegan leather products and the continuous advancements in materials and technologies, the fashion world is embracing a more compassionate and eco-friendly future.

Follow us on:

• Instagram
• Facebook

REFERENCES:

(1) https://www.voguebusiness.com/companies/stella-mccartney-sustainability-kering-and-chloe

Updated: 21 February 2025